check this thing out! its the mother of all 6x6s. Ive never seen anything like that before. Crazy canadians!

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this guy who plays at skirmish is building a tracked sherman. here is the link. It looks like he is doing a very nice job!

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here is some more russian paintball tank fun!

they even set the damn field on fire haha

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this one has some good t34 vs Pak footage

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gus for like $700 bucks we can take a plane to moscow! whos in for 2011?

im serious ill go if someone will come too

tiger vs sherman video

they can keep the sherman ill take a tiger 1 or 2 anyday lol

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check out this beast. its a HUGE r/c tank. extreme detail!

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WOW THATS AMAZING. THIS GUY IS A MATER MECHANIC, OR ENGINEER.

It appears that the isralies have developed a functional anti tank missle defense system. basically it will shoot down rpgs ect before hitting the tank. the article says it will allow tanks to have less armor but i think they might be forgetting about rounds from other tanks. It doesnt say this system can stop them so theyd still need good armor
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check out these tracked vehicles for sale!

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If i had the money i would buy the coot.

here is a VERY cool vid of a Ferdinand tank getting restored in aberdeen

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That is good stuff. She was a veteran of Kursk and Anzio. Thats real cool. I wonder if any of the crewmen that served on that anti-tank are still alive today?

I was thinking about using a motor/tranny/axle setup like the guy in the tiger used in a future project but not for the panther. The panther must be light enough to drag all over the east coast

anyway i think anyone who is thinking of using an automotive drivetrain should be sure to use a locking or at least aheavy duty posi. you dont wat to just have full power going to one track you want equal power distribution


Im pretty sure the drivetrain the panther will get will be the t 20 AATV tranny coupled with a 28- 32 hp motor. a 28 hp motor makes about 42 ft lbs of torque. and you gear it low and the thing should have pleanty of power.

The t 20 tranny has been used with 100 hp racing applications so i think it will hold up just fine. Heres some of the strong points of the t 20

*One side locks up and there is no differential that will double the speed of the non locked side. so it can make smooth calm turns

*Durability and simplicity- Strong and minimal things to go wrong. no hydraulic hoses or motors to deal with

* reasonable price-you can get a rebuilt t 20 and the required clutch for around $1500. you will need to buy or fabricate chain sprockets . (id double them up)

the only real negative is that you cant have neutral steering. This is when one track goes forward and the other can go reverse. this will allow you to spin on a dime

another option is a lawnmower transaxle. i dont know if they are strong enough for a tank application ,but they are cheap as hell. they also have multiple speeds. This could work great in a coot style vehicle! I see some for $100 i may just get one to play around with it. You have to use a vertical shaft motor with them like a mower has of course

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We need these to inspire us :

Here is a peice of the mockup hull. i took most of it apart bacause i have no place to store it right now.

The battleship is a 6 ft long model of the DKM Bismark ive been working on a little every now and then for about 6 years lol.

As you can see the hull is just high enough for the driver to sit slightly reclined.Aly is almost 4 ft . she would have pleanty of room lol. I had manny sit next to it.. He is 6 2 and he still had some headroom. its about 36 inches from the bottom of the hull to the top.

This 2/3 scale Panther is quite larger than our current hetzer. nottoo much higher but alot wider and longer

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I may start building the turret or something. id really like to get some work done on this thing now that i have my basic plans done

i think i can build this thing for about 9 grand. i may try to use my current 16 hp motor at first. after all it really only has to go 5 maybee 10 mph.

that will knock like $2300 off the pricetag to get it going.

I am going to make it so its driven from the rear and not the front like in real. that would be just too much work and money considering the drivetrain i am using. I can make th rear drive sproket to it fits and looks like the real one though. i figure i could notch out the belt so the sprockets teeth fit between the blocks of the tread. Id file down the blocks to ensure a nice fit also.

The front sprockets would now be used to adjust the tension of the tracks. im sure that will be a mandatory feature. It will work by sliding the whole sprocket back or forth as needed to ensure proper track tightness.I think ill still make the front sprockets so they fit into the ends of the track blocks. but then again if i dont it would save ALOT of work on machining the ends of the track blocks to fit the sprocket.

actually im looking at my model right now and in real they fit into the track a few inches in and not on the ends of the track links. i could do the same or just leave them mostly round. "but whats going to keep the tracks aligned?" the tracks would be aligned in the front and back by the metal aligning studs that are bolted to each track block

when i talk about track blocks - the tracks will be conveyer belt with hardwood blocks bolted to the bottom and metal track aglining studs bolted to the top. i may also screw some rubber or metal to thebottom of the blocks